Henrikdoc

Kirkby Stephen via Nine Standards Rigg to Keld

Another hearty breakfast before a lot of chatty chat with Joe (BnB host) before he went off to work and then a bit more chat with Chrissy (BnB hostess) before finally setting off at 9:15

Kirkby Stephen is a market town as well as a now walkers thoroughfare where Packhorse and Sherpavan have their HQ’s for transport and arranging the C2C walk for those who wish it.

Had to get a BIG lunch roll from bakery

before setting off on the trail again

Wainwright wrote; “This section has an important significance : on top of Nine Standards Rigg the main Pennine watershed is crossed-and Yorkshire entered.Thus far all rivers and streams met and have flowed to join the Irish Sea,west ; beyond, they all flow East to the North Sea” (Ref Wainwright- a coast to coast walk – publishers Frances Lincoln 2003) …. There is apparently no higher ground ahead on the journey.

So we began…

A gentle but occasionally challenging climb along tracks, alleys and roads led us onto the fell again

Past the quarry – huge!

..and not forgetting to look back every now and then 👍

.. and looking ahead to where we are heading

At about 530 m elevation the paving slabs / flagstones begin.

Apparently they took 2 years to lay and have shortened the route by around 1 hr, as well as reduced considerably the number of hikers getting lost, stuck in the bog or losing the spirit to go on … as well as cut out a lot of the swearing on the fell 🤪

….the stone supplier (steptoesyard.co.uk) says it supplied 2000 metres of reclaimed Yorkstone flags for the Nine Standards section and 2900 for the white mossy hill section stretching around 5 km (much more on the Keld side than the Kirkby side). (Ref 11April25 Uk Parliament QnA)

It is now extremely easy to follow through the bog even if it was misty. You just put 1 foot in front of the other and as long as you don’t stray off the slabs you’ll be ok- if you do ….

We finally got to the top and it was quite a magnificent sight!

When we got there it was a bit like Piccadilly circus as everyone had arrived and was having teabreak . We did too but by the time we left everyone else had gone, so the walk down the White Mossy Hill side was almost entirely alone.

Q. So what are the 9 all about ?

Wainwright gives a number of theories from being built by locals to fool marauding scots that there were English armies waiting for them to boundary stones (ref awainwright ‘a coast to coast walk Publisher Frances Lincoln 2003 p 76)

We probably don’t know but apparently they are depicted on 18 century maps.

First a little gentle up to the OS point

Wide open space and a lot of bog around . Thank you National Parks and Trails for the slabs – don’t care what the “Purists” would say

Some interesting reclaimed stones !

The way down meant a lunch stop in the sun eating our BIG ROLL…

…and then a cup of tea and scone at Ravenseat Farm (of TV fame) but not before passing by an organised Grouse hunt

We were sure that the young lady serving coffee was one of the “Owen” family …

We definitely realised we were now in the Yorkshire Dales as the countryside had that distinct “Dales” flavour

A few ‘locals’ watched us wander by …

… and then the final search for our accommodation – Frith Lodge in Keld – to be factually correct, the last house in Keld

This involved another ‘down and up’ … so be warned anyone staying here .🤪

BUT…

Once you’re there it could not be more perfect !

5 star hospitality and Accommodation and catering ….

Had the Crumble – apple and rhubarb with custard . Scored 9/10 – great crumble , enough fruit and nice flavour, custard perfect.

A good place to stay for a ‘Rest Day’ tomorrow as booked in for another night – Remember the plan : 8 days walk- 1 day rest-8 days walk